I went back to the drawing board on on the lady's dress, and decided to go with a brocade kind of look. I went back and consulted the class notes I have on the subject (taught by the marvelous Rhonda Bender). The way to do this according to those notes is to shade and highlight normally, freehand in your pattern, and then texture over it to give it the woven look.
So, I put in some rough shading and highlighting (the freehand and texture will hid a lot of rough blending) and started the freehand. Regular freehand patterns like this are definitely not my strong suit, as the pictures will show. So, this will be practice for a few different things.
Freehand takes some time, so it'll probably be a couple more sessions to finish.